Campo de borja

Campo de Borja is in the province of Zaragoza, within the Aragon region, just southeast of Rioja. It includes parts of the Ebro valley and spills up the slops of the Moncayo Massif, part of the Sistema Iberico mountain range just to the south. Vines were introduced by the Romans, although the first written records of viticulture in the region are contained in monastic records dating to 1203. When Rome fell, the region became part of the Visigothic Kingtom for several centuries, and then fell under Arab/Muslim domination starting in the early 700’s. After the Reconquista of the Iberian Peninsula by the Christian powers of Castille Aragon, Leon and others, the area was controlled throughout the middle ages by the Monastery of Veruela, a Cistercian abbey that was the primary driver of viticulture right up through the post-phylloxera replantings in the late 19th century. The district was granted DO status in 1980.

The relatively small region has a huge range of topography (vineyards from 1000ft to 2200ft elevation. Climate is hugely influenced by the looming Moncayo Massif, but is generally continental with hot summers, cold winters and a large diurnal temperature swing. Winters see an Atlantic influence in the form of a cold dry wind that blows in throughout the season. Because of this, the grape varieties that do best are hardy and handle the ripeness that comes with long hang times during the growing season.

Soils are also quite variable with rich alluvial soils in the Ebro valley, and a mix of soils derived from iron-rich limestones and shales on the slopes. Between the variations in soil type, underlying geology, climates, elevations and topograhic relief, Campo de Borja has some of the most complex terroir in Spain.

Authorized grapes for Campo de Borja are Garnacha, Tempranillo, Mazuela, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah for reds; and for whites, Macabeo, Garnacha Blanca, Chardonnay, Moscatel de Alejandría, Sauvignon Blanc, and Verdejo. The region is best known as home to Grenache (Garnacha), and it’s here that some of the country’s greatest Grenache-based wines are produced. Just to the south lies the DO of Calatayud, created as a DO in 1990 and also famed for Garnacha, and just southeast lies Carinena (one of Spain’s oldest DO regions established in 1932), home to another sturdy Mediterranean grape known historically as Carinena in Spain (now officially as Masuelo), and as Carignan in France. Just a couple miles north lies the DO of Somontano, also Garnacha territory. Somontano (“foothill”) references its position at the source of the Ebro, just at the foot of the Pyrennees. The DO was created in 1984.

vinos del viento

Michael Cooper, proprieor, vigneron and winemaker for Vinos del Viento, is originally from Santa Barbara. He met his wife Rosario, who hails from Zaragoza, in Rome; and fell in love with the wines and landscapes of her home country, the Grenache territory of southern Aragon.

Here, the Ebro River provides little “river influence” in the sense of the Rhone or Mosel- it’s simply too small to act as a heat reservoir. But its valley acts as a wind funnel, with a constant flow of air coming down from the cool mountains keeping the vines and fruit dry and healthy (and hence, the name Vinos del Viento).

One of the unique features of Michael’s wines is that they’re all from these ancient vineyards, all dry farmed, and all high-altitude. In fact his lowest vineyard is at 1800ft elevation! These are some of the purest expressions of great indigenous varieties in all of northeast Spain.

Aragon DOP Zones

Adjacent to Campo de Borja are three other very small but very important DOPs. To the northeast is Somontano, (“under the mountains”) a hilly district that spreads from the Pyrennes down to the Ebro Valley. Michael’s Garnacha Blanca is grown here.

To the south of Campo de Borja is Carinena, home of Carignane, in Spain officially known as Mazuelo (and whence Michael’s Carinena made of 100% Carignane). The district also allows 11 other varieties in the DO. Finally, the district of Catalayud, crisscrossed by various tributaries of the Ebro and allowing some 15 varieties on its dry, stony soils.

Garnacha

Campo de Borja sports not one, not two, but FIVE distinct varieties of Garnacha.

Garnacha Blanca (Grenache Blanc): A mutation of the red grenache (garnacha tinta), which shares some characteristics: it is sensitive to humid soils, very resistant to droughts and, to a lesser extent, wind. White Grenache wines are full bodied, have a greenish-yellow color and medium-high acidity, which makes it an ideal variety for both varietal wines and for blends. Its aromatic intensity is medium and has floral, herbaceous and fruity notes. They have a high alcohol content and are sensitive to oxidation.

Garnacha Tinta (Grenache Noir): This variety of Garnacha is one of the most used worldwide and can produce red, sweet and rosé wines. It is sensitive to pests, has little tolerance to wet and cold soils, but very resistant to wind and drought. It produces wines of high ripeness, great aromatic strength.

Garnacha Gris (Grenache Gris, Grenache Rose): A rare mutation of Grenache Noir, this grape produces a wine of pale pink color, with coppery flashes. Its aroma of citrus fruits and light body combine with moderate acitidy to yield a bright, fresh wine. It is ideal to pair with a variety of light flavors, making it an ideal tapas match.

Garnacha Penuda (Hairy Grenache): The variety gets its name from the hairy leaves. Like all Garnacha this variety is resistant to drought, adapts well to arid soils and is less sensitive to pests, it is a mutation of the Red Grenache and is native to Catalonia. It generally produces a slightly less fully ripe wine than Garnacha Tinta, of medium acidity, light on the palate and with aromas of red fruits.

Garnacha Tintorera (aka Alicante Bouschet): This variety is one of the dozen or so red-fleshed (tinting, “teinturier”) varieties of Vitis vinifera that gives red juice, was created in 1855-66 by Henri Bouschet at Domaine de la Calmette in Maugio, France. It is a cross between Petit Bouschet (created in 1824 by Henri’s father Louis, and itself a cross of Aramon Noir and Teinturier du Cher), and Grenache.

A sturdy, high-yielding variety, its red flesh gives a deeply colored juice without needing to extract color (and thus tannins) from the skins, resulting in intensely flavored but fresh and non-astringent wines.

The grape’s natural home is southwest Europe (Languedoc, parts of Spain and Portugal’s Alentejo region, but there are significant plantings in California (Prohibition- high ripeness, and resistance to rot during travel) as well as North Africa, Israel, and Brazil

the wines

Amber: This natural, skin-contact wine is produced from 100% Moscatel del Alejandria, old vines dry-farmed at 2000 ft elevation on poor, rocky, calcareous-clay soils. Harvested at down and cold-fermented in stainless steel using natural yeasts and spontaneous fermentation, then long lees contact and bottling with minimal sulfites. Classic “amber wine” flavors and texture- earthy tobacco-leaf aromas with underlying bright Muscat fruit… long succulent finish- a GREAT example of what makes Orange/Amber wines so exciting! A quirk of the DO regs: because Moscatel is not an approved variety in Campo de Borja, the wine is not a DO wine, which in turn means it’s not allowed to put a vintage date on it. You’ll find a bottling date on the label which indicates the wine is of the prior vintage’s harvest.

Garnacha Blanca Campo de Borja DO: a blend of 90% Garnacha Blanca and 10% Viognier, from a single high altitude vineyard on calcareous clay soils at about 1950ft. Hand-harvested and then vinified in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks to preserve the purity of fruit, then rested on fine lees for 4 months to create texture and aromatics. The wine is long on the palate. Ideal for a refreshing aperitif or to pair with salads and white meat or soft cheeses.

Aventura Campo de Borja DO: a juicy and forward blend of primarily Garnacha, Garnacha Tintorera and Syrah, sometimes with a bit of Graciano. 30-year-old dry-farmed vines planted between 1800 and 2200 ft on clay-rich soils. Deep purple color with notes of berry, plum and herbs, and a kick of black pepper from the Grenache.

Garnacha Vinas Viejas Campo de Borja DO: 100% Garnacha from bush vines in the mountainous municipality of Ainzón in what could be considered extreme viticulture and “Extreme Garnachas” in the foothills of the ancient volcano, the Moncayo Mountain. It seduces with notes of red fruits and liquorice and is smooth and generous on the palate; a true expression of Garnacha.

Garnacha Tintorera Campo de Borja DO: 100% Garnacha Tintorera from ancient bush vines on the Moncayo Massif. Using the Tintorera (teinturier, red-fleshed) variety of Grenache means this is a powerful and ripe, but very softly tannic wine. A rare and unique gem!

Carinena DO: 100% Carignane from the eponymous village. Old vines on sandy/stony soils. One week pre-fermenetation maceration, then spontaneous fermentation using wild yeasts, then another week on the lees post-fermentation. Very light filtration. Deep and concentrated ruby color. Intense nose and scented with aromas of blackberries, red currants, coffee, mint and smoke. On the palate it has a refreshing and firm acidity, juicy raspberries and concentrated blueberries. Persistent finish. If you’re want to understand Carignane, drink it from Carinena!

Ermita Santa Barbara Campo de Borja DO: 100% Garnacha from a single vineyard near the Santa Bárbara hermitage in the municipality of Tabuenca, a "Mars like” terroir with a mixture of basalt, siliceous sandstones of intense red color and shale on a mountain ridge at almost 2700ft above sea level. Vines are 50 years old+, dry-farmed, bush-trained and hand-harvested. Partial destem, followed by fermentation by wild yeasts in a mix of open-top barrels and concrete vats. Aged in a mixture of used and new French Oak barrels for 12 months. Bright ruby red. Ripe crushed red berries and sweet plums are wrapped in tobacco, cedar, milk chocolate with a hint of vanilla. tailing off into a long, ripe finish.